Last Updated on June 13, 2025
A grandmother possesses special qualities and holds secrets in her apron pockets. Treasures like shiny, new silver quarters and butterscotch candies are hidden there. Her hugs wrap recipients in a blanket of comfort and safety.
The aromas from her kitchen are intoxicating. All grandmothers have wooden spoons that stir ingredients and flavors into tasty dishes. With a pinch of salt or a dash of seasoning, a grandmother serves up the memories that last a lifetime.
I remember my grandma stirring a big pot of chicken soup mixing celery, carrots, potatoes, and barley while it bubbled on the stove. I can close my eyes and smell it now. It doesn’t matter whether you call your grandmother grandma, nana, abuela, nainai, bubby, yia-yia, tayta, sitty, oma, mormor, or nonna, the memories she creates are your recipe for life.
During Mother’s Day weekend, Netflix released a new movie called “Nonnas.” Thefilm features a star-studded cast including Vince Vaughn, Joe Manganiello, and veteran actresses, Susan Sarandon, Lorraine Bracco, Brenda Vaccaro, and Talia Shire.
It is the story of Jody Scaravella, a man who longs for the days spent in his nonna’s kitchen. Despite having no restaurant experience, he opens an Italian restaurant, Enoteca Maria in Staten Island, NY, paying homage to his mother, Maria, and nonna, Domenica. Scaravella was so determined to create the memories of his nonna’s cooking that he placed an ad in an Italian newspaper America Oggi.
The ad was for “casalingas,” or housewives who cook. He hired grandmothers, or “nonnas,” to re-create their specialties and that’s where his culinary adventure begins. Eighteen years later, Jody Scaravella is still looking for “grandmas” and “nonnas” to satisfy the palates of his guests. He greets everyone as they enter the intimate 34-seat dining experience.
Guests immediately feel like they’re eating at Nonna’s real tavola. It’s a cozy space where tables are placed close together giving the impression of one long family table. The exposed brick walls are adorned with monetary notes signed by visitors from all around the world. On another wall are amusing and religious photos along with heartwarming memorabilia, including a prominent photo of the women in Scaravella’s family.
Visitors have a front-row seat to watch the nonnas cook specially prepared dishes from their native countries. Reservations are not easy to get, and I felt like I won the lottery when I scored a table during the weekend of the movie premiere. Entering the restaurant, every table was taken and the chatter was all about the movie. Several women seated nearby clutched copies of Nonna’s House, a compilation of the nonnas’ famous Italian recipes and were anxiously waiting for an autograph from “Nonna Maria” who had recently appeared on the Kelly Clarkson show.
Since you are seated so close to your neighbors, conversation flows easily and everyone has a recommendation for your meal. Jody Scaravella stands behind the bar keeping watch over the action as well as pouring selected wines from the Enoteca. Although the restaurant started with only Italian nonnas, today there are nonnas from over 30 countries, including Mexico, China, Poland, Uzbekistan, Egypt, Japan, and Greece.
Nonnas are rotated each week and homemade, family classics are prepared along with Italian favorites.
During my visit, Nonna Wen from China, and Nonna Yumiko from Japan, cooked signature dishes alongside Italian nonnas, Maria and Carmelina. While perusing the menu, I sipped a glass of Vermentino, a dry white wine with a hint of citrus. It was the perfect complement to the warm focaccia served as we were seated.
Nonna Carmelina wandered from table to table hugging guests, taking photos, and sharing information about the food. Her warmth and outgoing nature added to the homey dining experience.
Next, I indulged in the Shanghai-style spring rolls – light and flaky, packed with napa cabbage, pork, fresh vegetables, and tangy hints of Asian spices.
After enjoying the appetizers, it was time for the main course. By now, Nonna Maria had arrived and everyone started clapping. She is a celebrity and cooks several days each week at Enoteca Maria. Over 90 years old, she has more energy than anyone I know. She makes her special lasagna not only with the freshest cheeses and sauce, but also with that magic ingredient of love.
My dining companion ordered the Lasagna Della Nonna – a signature dish made with layers of pasta and beef ragu, mozzarella, and ricotta in Nonna’s special tomato sauce. A generous portion was placed on the table as the scent of garlic, basil, and fresh tomatoes filled the air. My friend barely spoke a word and before long the plate was empty. The dish was the best recommendation.
I opted for an Asian-inspired entrée.
Yakitori is a Japanese dish prepared with grilled chicken skewers glazed in a homemade tare, a savory Yakitori dipping sauce. Tare is a combination of soy sauce, sake, and mirin. The chicken is served over a bed of rice with mixed greens. There was more than enough food to share and the tare gives the chicken a spicy, yet flavorful taste.
Of course, what meal is complete without dessert?
The coffee caramel cream brulee was one of the irresistible treats on the menu. As you break through the whipped cream and glaze topping, you catch a whiff of espresso. With anticipation and with each morsel, you taste the coffee infused custard wrapped in the sweet, softness of caramel. The taste lingers long after you finish and leaves you craving for more.
Other desserts on the menu include Granny Smith Apple Cake, Gluten-Free Gateau-au-Chocolate, Chia Coconut pudding with mixed berries, and lemon sorbet. Maybe, I’ll start with dessert next time. It’s that good.
Enoteca Maria, the “Home of the Nonnas,” is located on the northern shore of Staten Island, a short walk from the ferry that connects Staten Island to Manhattan. This was certainly a memorable Mother’s Day weekend that won’t soon be forgotten. As I was leaving the restaurant, my “new” friends wished us well and told us to be sure to watch the movie.
Although Vince Vaughn plays Jody Scaravella in the movie, Scaravella also makes a guest appearance in several scenes. He shared exciting news that Nonnas of the World, a virtual book will be coming out this summer with stories, recipes, and cultural experiences shared by grandmothers from around the world.
While we waited outside on that warm spring afternoon, I noticed a man and his young son admiring the movie poster in the restaurant window and I commented, “I think this movie is going to be a winner.” He said, “I hope so, I am the producer, Jack Turner. I have been coming here for over 10 years and always wanted to make a movie about this place.” I thought, “I am so glad he finally did!”
Enoteca Maria is the dining room at grandma’s or nonna’s house we all fondly remember, and where we are always welcomed back.
