Last Updated on September 20, 2024
Walking out of the train station at 125th Street in Harlem, I heard someone say, “Hey, look, it’s Snow White.”
I kind of smiled at the man and continued walking. I started doubting my choice of booking a Harlem walking tour, but remembered how much I’d wanted to learn about this area of New York for a long time.
As I continued toward my destination – keeping a close eye on my bag – my attention was pulled in all directions. Harlem is a colorful neighborhood with vendors shouting out prices, people passing out flyers for the upcoming election, neighbors chatting, people shouting “Welcome to Harlem,” and music blaring in the background.
On previous visits to New York, I had not gone to Harlem. I was afraid of its reputation for being dangerous due to crime and drugs. I even lived in New York City for two years and never ventured here.
However, when researching a New York food walking tour last summer, I noticed one was offered in Harlem by Tours by Foot. I made a mental note to book it when I returned in 2024, and so I did.
Harlem Walking Tour
Before meeting the group, I stopped in a small shop to order a slice of pizza. I sat for a moment, thinking. As someone who travels around the world, I felt my guard being up for the first time in a very long time.
I found it hard to relax for my first 20 minutes in Harlem. I don’t know if it was because of the stares or just being in an unfamiliar place with an interesting reputation; I decided to take it all in nonetheless.
I reminded myself this is why I travel and seek experiences that may be out of my comfort zone. There is a reason why I wanted to learn more about this legendary neighborhood, so I decided this was another important lesson for the day.
It was finally time to meet up with my guide, Lady Altovise. When she approached, I knew we would have a great tour. Her passion for Harlem and bubbly personality has allowed her to guide groups for over 20 years. Her deep laugh and powerful voice made me want to learn as much as possible over the next two hours.
Learning About Harlem
The only thing I knew about Harlem besides the famous Apollo Theater was that it was home to many great musicians such as Duke Ellington, Ella Fitzgerald, and Anita Baker. The tour provided much more insight into this fascinating neighborhood.
We saw a still-functioning speakeasy. We saw the brown high rises for the Harlem Hellfighters. These heroes were not allowed to reside in white neighborhoods after returning from the WW I so the government housed them here. This was my first time learning about the Hellfighters; I was shocked to learn this history.
Throughout the tour, Lady Altovise reminded our group that while these facts may make us uncomfortable and appalled, it’s important to share them so we can learn and begin to understand one other. She reiterated the importance of discussing these painful history lessons.
I learned that Harlem was a complex neighborhood, first occupied by Native Americans, then the Dutch, followed by the Irish, and finally, predominantly by African Americans.
We passed by brownstones in an area located about a ten-minute walk from the Apollo Theater. In the 1970s and 1980s, this area was heavily affected by drugs. During these times, if the houses looked good, it was a sign that Harlem was doing well. If not, well, that’s another story.
Today, gentrification more than blight is a concern throughout the neighborhood. Longtime residents at risk of being priced out. At the same time, like many big cities, Harlem still has its share of homeless.
Our tour ended at the iconic Apollo Theater. While we were not able to go inside, it was still an excellent endpoint. Visitors could continue walking 15 minutes to the northern reaches of Central Park, but I decided to hang out and try some soul food at Sylvia’s.
Sylvia’s Harlem Restaurant
Sylvia’s Restaurant was founded in 1962 by Sylvia Woods, the “Queen of Soul Food.” Legends like Aretha Franklin would have their after-parties at her restaurant, and it’s been frequented by presidents, celebrities, and residents of Harlem.
While sitting at the bar waiting for my chicken and waffle entree, I watched diners coming and going. The friendly staff were laughing and mingling with patrons, and it was obvious that the friendly atmosphere keeps customers returning time and again.
Tour Details
Though I admit to feeling on guard at times, I would still recommend the tour for anyone who wants to learn about Harlem’s history. It’s a neighborhood definitely worth checking out and one that continues the work of carrying on its iconic traditions.
When I signed up for the Harlem walking tour in July 2024, there was a $4 registration fee for Tours by Foot in Harlem. Afterward, visitors could pay whatever they wanted for a tip. At the time of writing this however, the website shows the tour now costs $29-$39.
The 1.5-mile tour lasts two hours with a ten-minute stop at the National Jazz Museum in Harlem.
