Last Updated on November 15, 2024
Why do people keep returning to Baobab Fare in Detroit? Sure, for their flavorful East African food with hints of cumin and chili powder. But it’s more than just the food. Husband-and-wife owners Hamissa Mamba and Nadia Nijimbere have provided a relaxing environment, making diners feel completely at home. Coming here feels like attending a Sunday family dinner.
Upon arrival, the friendly staff and bright yellow chairs are immediately noticeable. One wall displays woven baskets. Near the entrance are products such as coffee, apparel and chocolate, part of their Soko market. Behind the counter, in bright yellow letters, is the phrase, ‘Detroit Ni Nyumbani,’ meaning ‘Detroit is home.’
A friend recommended the restaurant to me, and while there, I could not stop eating my Samaki – fish with zesty sauteed onions and a combo of spicy pilao, coconut rice, plantains and corn.
The bonus was the spiced coffee with hints of cardamom and cumin paired with Tamu – a passion fruit and avocado pudding. The light, creamy, and satisfying dessert was an excellent way to end the meal. I also recommend the hibiscus tea and passion fruit juice.
I had a chance to meet one of the owners, Mamba. He and Nijimbere are two-time James Beard Award semi-finalists and one-time finalists. Mamba also took first place on Food Network’s Chopped in 2023. The couple have been successful since opening in 2021, receiving the best new restaurant from Eater Detroit and they continue to thrive and delight guests.
Mamba and Jijimbere came from Burundi as refugees, with Nijimbere arriving in 2013 and Mamba following in 2015. The owners received help from Freedom House Detroit, a non-profit assisting refugees and asylum seekers.
Mamba completed a business degree and says that finding work and supporting a family as a refugee seeking asylum was extremely challenging. He remembers eating food here in the U.S. and missing meals at home. Growing up, his mom had a restaurant, and since Nijimbere is a great cook, they decided to try opening a restaurant serving the cuisine they know well.
This task was not easy. From 2017 to 2021, the couple set up small pop-ups across the state to test the market. They created Burundi recipes that reminded them of the food they would eat with their neighbors back home. Finally, in early 2021, they opened the restaurant.
Desserts are uncommon in Burundi, so the couple created Tamu to try something with passion fruit and avocado. A team of four people also created Coco Mango, consisting of coconut cream, mango coulis, and chunks of mango topped with coconut flakes. The crunchy and sweet flavor of this dessert hits the perfect spot.
The restaurant uses fresh ingredients, and the food is halal, a term in Islam that indicates foods are safe and permissible. Other tasty items on the menu include Intore, a fragrant eggplant stew, and the signature beef dish, Nyumbani, which means ‘home.’
Ninety-five percent of Baobab’s staff are women and the restaurant’s 45 employees can speak ten languages, hailing from countries including Rwanda, Mexico, Haiti, and Cameroon. The couple make it a priority to hire other refugees and immigrants.
A second location in Detroit is tentatively scheduled to open in Spring 2025. Mamba and Nijimbere also have a food truck called Waka and Soko market, offering various products, including one of my favorites, Pili, an East African hot sauce. It has quite a kick and goes with anything.
Mamba and Nijimbere are sharing their success with the community, helping raise money for Freedom House and partnering with other local businesses.
“I never had a chance to think about the future growing up,” Mamba said. “I only thought about how to get through the day. Now I have a chance to think about my future.”
When visiting Detroit, stop by Baobab Fare. It is impossible to make a wrong choice when ordering any dish. The creative, flavorful cuisine, family atmosphere, and friendly staff will beckon your return.
