There’s magic at work in Baja Sur, Mexico’s Todos Santos. One of 120 Mexican towns to be designated a pueblo magico (magic town) for its enchanting beauty, cultural riches, or historical relevance. This palm-fringed desert oasis provides the perfect respite from nearby busier Cabo San Lucas.
An easy one-hour drive from Cabo on well-maintained roads, Todos Santos – meaning “All Saints” – is a small coastal pueblo with captivating charm. Many say it’s a reminder of what Cabo was 20 years ago.
Situated at the foothills of the rugged Sierra de la Laguna Mountains on the Pacific side of the Baja Peninsula, the village is home to artists, musicians, filmmakers, and surfers. The town allures visitors with its appealing blend of easy, peaceful, laid-back atmosphere and air of cultural sophistication. The locals are friendly, hospitable, gracious, and more than happy to regale visitors with tales of its rich history and centuries-old traditions.
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Here are my favorite things to see and do in and around Todos Santos.
1. Check out the Hotel California
Tops on my curiosity list and, to be honest, one of our main reasons for visiting Todos Santos was the surreal and somewhat bizarre Hotel California.
Founded in 1947 and made famous by the Eagles song in 1973, the vibrant, quirky hotel whose name predates the legendary iconic song adamantly denies the rumor that the Eagles were in residence when the song was written. The bartender, however, did confirm countless stories and firsthand reports of spirits, ghosts, and eerie happenings in the hotel, so reminiscent of the lyrics.
The hotel exudes a colorful, eccentric atmosphere and sports a fascinating gift shop and restaurant—all-in-allsuch a lovely place, such a lovely place.
2. Dine at Tequila’s Sunrise
Todos Santos features a surprising number of restaurants for a small town, ranging from street-side taco stands and family establishments with typical Mexican fare to fine dining.
The tantalizing aromas and welcoming atmosphere of Tequila’s Sunrise lured us to its colorful open-air entrance. Claiming to make the best guacamole in town (which I believe is true), the main fare of shrimp and lobster chile rellenos was a mouth-watering lunchtime feast. And, of course, it has to be washed down with a delightful Mexican libation. In the outdoor courtyard, a guitarist serenaded diners with hauntingly beautiful chords. It’s as authentic Mexico as it gets.
3. Discover Playa las Palmas
A mere 15-minute drive from the town transports visitors to some of the most isolated and beautiful beaches in all of Baja. Locals guided me to Playa las Palmas exclaiming, “the only footprints you’re likely to see in the sand are your own.”
As I followed a short dusty path to the beach, desert cacti lining the mountainside to our left contrasted sharply with the lush, green saw grass and towering palms on the right. I call it the “desert meets the tropics.” The locals were spot-on. The secluded half-mile of beach was completely devoid of humans. Seabirds foraging in the still clear waters of the lagoon was my only companion.
4. Check Out Hacienda Cerritos
Just on the outskirts of town, Hacienda Cerritos, visible from miles away, provides a strikingly different feel from lodging in the artisan village. This elegant Spanish guest house and its courtyard invoke the aura of a days-gone-by Mexico.
Spectacular sweeping Pacific Ocean views from its whale watching bar are almost indescribable.
Although only a few years old, Hacienda Cerritos skillfully weaves an impression of vintage and timeless presence. With its lofty bell tower, flowery courtyard, and tiled corridors, this remote and hauntingly beautiful 10-bedroom luxury boutique hotel could have easily been inspired by the Hotel California song. Even if unintentional, the hacienda certainly captures its essence.
5. Surf at Playa Los Cerritos
Pristine crescent-shaped Playa Los Cerritos is located just a short drive from the town of Todos Santos. This beach is renowned for the area’s safest swimming and best place for both beginner and more advanced surfers year-round. Winter offers the best surf breaks.
Professional surfers here offer lessons, with surfboards and wet suits provided (for winter surfers). Not into surfing? That’s ok; it’s a great place to people-watch and wiggle toes in the sand under a shady palapa with a cold, refreshing margarita.
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6. Hike Punta Lobos
Peaceful and picturesque, Punta Lobos is one of Mexico’s best-kept secrets. This is the place where local fishermen launch their skiffs or pangas in the waves of the local beach.
If you’re into hiking and time allows, I recommend the 3.5-hour guided relaxing and picturesque cliff walk trek. Passing through desert landscape and fascinating flora and fauna, the hike ends at San Pedro beach’s magnificent cove. I loved the views of crashing waves, lounging sea lions, and in the winter, this vista is perfect for spotting whales.
Once on the beach, a chef-prepared picnic and cool-down swim were icing on the cake to a perfect day. If you’re here during sunset, you’ll be treated to a stunning, awe-inspiring spectacle.
7. Release Baby Sea Turtles
Just before sunset each day from December through February and sporadically during March and April, baby sea turtles are released on beaches in Todos Santos and El Pescadero. These tiny Pacific hatchlings are released as part of an operation sponsored by Tortugueros Las Playacita to save these endangered sea creatures.
As the baby turtles crawl across the sand toward the ocean, experts assess their readiness, making sure they can adequately move, crawl, get oriented to the water, and come up for air as they swim away. The great part is that locals and visitors can watch, or even better yet, participate in the release. If you’ve never done it, I recommend it. It’s an incredible experience.
8. Shop for Local Treasures
Todos Santos is an art haven, with many of its shops showcasing impressive collections from its local artists. Most of the boutiques and galleries are located on narrow cobblestone streets and believe me, they are magnificent.
I just love browsing through the many delightfully colorful and unique craft, jewelry, and clothing shops tucked away along the main avenue. Many were traditional Mexican, but some include a distinctive North American bohemian flare. Over 30 galleries and artist studios display paintings, sculptures, ceramic tile designs, stained glass, and photographic art. The shopping is great. Believe me, you’ll need an extra suitcase.
9. Visit a Local Farmers Market
Fertile soil and the abundance of fresh water from underground aquifers produced a rich bounty of vegetables, fruits, and grapes for winemaking when Jesuit Padres arrived here in 1727. Harvesting the land is a tradition still carried on today. Local restaurants have been featuring their own farm-to-table organic products long before it became popular elsewhere.
And there’s no shortage of papayas, avocados, strawberries, chili peppers, or organic produce at the town’s farmers’ market. Lucky for visitors and locals alike, these are held year-round.
Not only is the organic produce impressive, but you’ll find a variety of other items like tequila, vanilla, pastries, homemade soap, home décor, smoked fish, and a whole lot more.
Conclusion:
It’s no wonder, after getting to know Todos Santos, that this town was designated one of Mexico’s Pueblo Magicos. It’s a perfect melding of history, culture, natural beauty, art, delectable cuisine, and happy, friendly locals. One trip however is never enough as this town can charm just about anyone and does–time and again.
